Much of the country has experienced drought and extreme heat this summer, and turfgrass lawns are feeling the pain.
There are steps we can take, however, to mitigate the damage while still trying to conserve precious water resources.
Know your lawn
There are two classifications of turfgrasses: cool-season grasses, which include Kentucky bluegrass, perennial rye, fine fescue and tall fescue, and warm-season tropical types like Bermuda, St. Augustine, centipede and zoysia, which are considered heat- and drought-tolerant.
Warm-season grasses, used throughout much of the South, fare better over summer and go dormant when the weather cools.
Cool-season grasses, grown in four-season climates, enter dormancy under the scorching rays of the summer sun, and the excessive watering needed to break that dormancy would be a wasteful endeavor. Instead, provide just enough water to keep the beige, straw-like groundcover alive — about a half-inch every other week. Avoid foot traffic until the grass recovers and provide a dose of fertilizer when it regains its green hue.
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Interplanting native groundcovers with grass and tolerating some weeds, which tend to remain green under the harshest of conditions, can provide a semblance of lawn during drought. It really doesn’t have to be perfect.
This image shows the heat-induced dormancy of a cool-season lawn in Glen Head, N.Y.
Don’t mow too much
Growth tends to slow during drought, so mowing may not be necessary. But if your lawn needs a trim, don’t cut it too short.
In general, keep mower blades set to 3 inches and never remove more than one-third the height of the lawn in a single mowing session. That will minimize stress, and allow the grass to keep itself cooler and less vulnerable to dehydration. Mowing too short weakens grass and exposes soil to sunlight, which hastens moisture evaporation.
Mowing the lawn is a lot like performing surgery. Just as a sharp scalpel is preferable to a dull knife, well-honed mower blades are kinder to grass than dull ones, which rip and fray rather than cut cleanly. That leads to browning, and makes the lawn more susceptible to disease and infestation.
If possible, mow early or late in the day to avoid exposing freshly cut grass to the strongest heat.
Water thoughtfully
Less-frequent, deeper watering that reaches roots is preferable to a daily surface sprinkle. Deep watering promotes vigorous plants that can better withstand hot, dry spells.
Follow any local watering guidelines, of course, if you live in a drought-stricken area where authorities have urged or required reductions in outdoor watering.
Most grasses need about 1 ½ inches of water per week, including rainfall. If you have an automatic sprinkler system, determine how much water you’re applying by setting a tuna can or similar container on the lawn and running a typical cycle. Measure the depth of accumulation in the can. Next, do the math, dividing the depth in inches by two or three weekly sessions to determine how long to run the sprinkler each time.
Sprinkler systems vary widely in output, depending on such things as make and model, your home’s water pressure, and missing or broken sprinkler heads.
Watering deeply promotes a vigorous root system that can better withstand hot, dry spells.
If you’re not sure whether to water, step on a patch of grass and lift your foot; if it springs back, it’s well hydrated. If your footprint remains compressed, the lawn is thirsty.
Set sprinklers to run in the morning, ideally between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m., and not after 4 p.m. Watering when the sun is at its strongest diminishes the amount of water that can reach roots before it evaporates; doing so later in the day increases the risk of mold and fungal diseases.
Don’t kill it with kindness
When the lawn is struggling, your instinct may be to give it a nutritional boost, but fertilizing during hot, dry spells can do more harm than good.
Fertilizer applications stimulate growth that requires more energy than stressed grass can afford. Instead, allow clippings to remain on the lawn.
If you don’t have a mulching mower, remove the bag and mow over the expelled clippings to chop them. As they decompose, the clippings will return a natural (and free) form of nitrogen to the soil.
Carefully consider alternatives
If you’re tempted to give up grass altogether, artificial turf might seem like an eco-friendly option. It doesn’t need water, fertilizer or mowing, and many of today’s fake lawns have variegated colors and textures that look real. Some are made of recycled plastic bottles or other seemingly “good” materials. But, as with most things, the devil is in the details.
For starters, plastic is plastic, whether it’s newly manufactured or recycled, and it’s not biodegradable. Eventually, it will end up in a landfill.
In addition, a 2017 Arizona State University study found that plastic grass absorbs and holds more heat than brick or asphalt — and retains that heat longer. That’s bad news for pets, bare feet, and the soil and microbial and insect life that lives within it. The generated heat also radiates into the air, increasing the temperature around your house.
Although artificial lawns require less attention than living ones, they aren’t maintenance-free. They occasionally need to be cleaned and must be hosed down when they get too hot. The toxic chemicals the “lawn” exudes may run off into storm drains and elsewhere, potentially impacting ground water, just as fertilizers and pesticides do.
Instead, consider replacing the lawn altogether: Native flowers, shrubs and trees thrive with less water than turfgrass, don’t typically need fertilizer amendments, and provide food and habitat to wildlife.
Looking ahead
If heat and drought lead to bare spots, re-seed the lawn when the weather cools. Water deeply once, then lightly every day until new growth is 3 inches tall. Don’t let seeds dry out even once, or you may have to start over.
Next year, start watering deeply early in the season to establish a deep and robust root system more able to withstand severe weather. Even better, consider planting short-growing native grasses like Pennsylvania sedge and groundcovers like clover that can handle some foot traffic while remaining lush and green throughout the dog days of summer.
Tips for growing a healthy garden during drought
Gardening during dry spells
Many people try to save water just to do the right thing (and save money too). But when serious drought hits, and state and local governments enforce restrictions, water conservation becomes non-negotiable.
So far this summer, nearly 65% of the United States and Puerto Rico is experiencing “abnormally dry” weather, according to the U.S. Drought Monitor. Almost 43% of those locations are contending with “moderate” drought, and nearly 47% with “severe,” “extreme” or “exceptional” drought. That means more than 109 million people are living under drought conditions.
And a lot of them have plants or yards to worry about.
Unfortunately, it’s a little late in the season to begin trying two of the best ways to conserve water in the garden. First, rain barrels and other rain harvesting methods are of little use when there’s no rain to fill them. Second, xeriscaping, the practice of planting drought-tolerant plants, many of them native to a region, works only if those plants are already in place. Consider both for next year.
Native plants are well-adapted to their climate and more tolerant of adverse conditions like drought. In California, for instance, where roughly 98% of the state is experiencing drought, plants like California poppy, California fuchsia, California lilac and manzanita are among the best native xeriscape plants to use.
Check the EPA’s compilation of drought-tolerant plant resources, listed by state, at epa.gov/watersense/what-plant to find your best options.
Choosing which plants to water
If you’re gardening under water restrictions, prioritize which plants need water most and which can be sacrificed if need be. Newly planted trees and shrubs are high on the priority list. They require regular watering until their roots become established, which can take a full year.
Older trees, especially fruit, nut and ornamental trees, but also evergreens, can suffer from drought, so don’t forget about them.
Perennial flowers, which return year after year and are more expensive than annuals, should be next on the list, along with vegetables in their flowering and fruiting stages. Melons and squash, which have deep roots, can typically get by with less water than crops like corn, which have shallow roots.
Low on the list of priorities should be annuals, which are not long-term investments anyway; crops with high water needs, like beans, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, corn, lettuce and radishes; and plants growing in pots, as they require more water than their in-ground counterparts. None will likely thrive with the little water that can be offered under mandated restrictions.
Watering efficiently
Most plants require an average of 1 to 1 ½ inches of water per week under normal conditions, which amounts to a little more than a half-gallon of water per square foot of garden space. That need could increase, however, during periods of extreme heat, when the soil dries out more quickly.
Regardless, don’t apply your plants’ weekly water needs all at once. Divide it over two or three sessions per week, opting for deeper, less-frequent waterings over daily sprinkles, which are wasteful and ineffective at saturating roots. Watering deeply also establishes stronger, deeper roots that are better able to sustain plants when surface water becomes less available.
Avoid using overhead sprinklers, which wet foliage, pavement and other areas instead of directing water to plant roots. Instead, place soaker hoses or drip-irrigation tubing on the soil directly over roots. Watering cans and hand-held hoses aimed at the soil work, too.
Water only in the morning (or in the evening, if absolutely necessary), but avoid midday, when moisture is likely to evaporate before reaching roots.
Consider using so-called gray water, recycled household water, to water plants. Unsalted water left over from boiling eggs or vegetables provides a nutrient-rich bonus. Dish and bath water that’s not too soapy won’t harm ornamental plants. Just don’t apply it to edibles. And water captured while rinsing fruits and vegetables can be used around the garden.
Other tips for reducing thirst
Keep beds and borders free of weeds, which compete with your plants for water and nutrients. A 3-inch layer of bark mulch, wood chips or gravel around plants will help prevent weed seeds from taking hold, retain soil moisture and keep the soil cooler.
Set mower blades high to promote deeper roots. Taller grass needs less water because it grows slowly and shades the soil. Repair or replace leaky hoses and bib connections.
Some don’ts: Avoid fertilizing plants during drought; This might seem counterintuitive, but fertilizers promote fast growth, which increases the need for water. Avoid using weed killers, which tend to drift to other areas in hot weather; they’re less effective in high temperatures anyway.
Don’t plant anything new, and avoid pruning plants, which stresses them and increases their water needs.
Going forward, consider replacing the lawn with native groundcovers. Incorporate generous helpings of compost into beds and planting holes to improve water retention. Observe the sun-exposure requirements on plant tags (shade lovers need more water when exposed to too much sun). And use more native plants.
Next summer, this could be easier.
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