Migratory birds arrive in larger numbers at Mangalajodi in Odisha

A flock of godwits in flight in Mangalajodi, northeastern edge of Chilika Lake in Odisha.
| Photo Credit: KR Deepak

The flutter of a group of northern pintails breaks the misty morning silence at Mangalajodi, the northeastern edge of Chilika Lake, Asia’s biggest brackish water lagoon in Odisha. Slicing through the still waters, a boatman rows a group of photographers towards the birds.

Purna Chandra Behera, a local fisherman and bird-watching guide, focuses his binoculars on a purple heron. “Zoom the lens towards your right. It is about to catch a snake,” he whispers to the photographers in the boat. In a fraction of second, camera shutters click to capture the bird in flight with a catch against the crimson morning sun.

The photographers catch sight of the little stint, a tiny long-distant migrant that flies over thousands of kilometres from the Arctic to vacation at Mangalajodi this time of the year.

A flock of godwits taking off in Mangalajodi, northeastern edge of Chilika Lake in Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

Northern shovelers, ruffs, godwits, plovers, gadwalls and a variety of birds arrive in large numbers from across continents to Mangalajodi during the winter months. This year, migratory birds have come in larger numbers to the Chilika lagoon. In winter this year, nearly 11.31 lakh birds were reported from Chilika in the latest census, which is 1.57 lakh more than last year. This included 10.93 migratory birds of over 100 species and native birds of more than 70 species.

A purple heron flies away with a snake to feast on it, in Mangalajodi, northeastern edge of Chilika Lake in Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

A protected ecosystem, improved habitat and abundant food are said to be some of the factors that have made this place a haven for birds. Over 130 enumerators, including bird experts, forest officials and wildlife activists, were involved in the census.

Among the most recorded species were the gadwall and northern pintail, followed by Eurasian wingeon. Northern shovelers, tufted ducks and red crested pochards have also come in greater numbers to the lagoon as compared to last year. Bringing in more cheer to the quaint village of Mangalajodi was the sighting of a pair of river lapwing, which was recorded after more than a decade.

Photographers cross a group of migratory birds from Siberia in Mangalajodi, northeastern edge of Chilika Lake in Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

Drawing ornithologists and photographers from across the country, Mangalajodi’s thriving ecosystem is a complete contrast to what was a few years ago. It is hard to imagine that the place was not always the bird paradise it now is.

Back in 2000, only a couple of thousand birds roosted here. Locals were not aware of their significance. They poisoned or shot them down to sell the meat in local eateries and neighbouring cities. “We did not know the significance of the birds or the need to protect the ecosystem,” says Purna, who was jailed for two months for poaching of birds. Today, the hardened poachers like him are have gone on to contribute to conservation and have develop an exemplary community-led ecotourism model around Asia’s largest brackish water lake. In the process, several allied small businesses have opened up, the skills of the people have been enhanced, and they effortlessly mingle with a cosmopolitan visitors who arrive in large batches during the winter birding season.

A godwit with a catch as the sun sets over Mangalajodi, northeastern edge of Chilika Lake in Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

Purna, a local, is one of the stakeholders in the Mangalajodi Ecotourism Trust (MET), which runs stay facilities, plies boats, and deploys guides during the birding season from October to March. Trained by the Bombay Natural History Society and the Chilika Development Authority, many villagers such as him have become expert birders. During off-season, they are involved in fishing and cattle-rearing, meeting every month to stay one step ahead of the poachers.

Like MET, there are two more organisations run by group of villagers, each having 15 boats and managing home-stays and cottages. With the tourism industry bouncing back after a gap of two years due to the pandemic, the people of Mangalajodi are once again busy catering to the steady stream of visitors. “We are yet to get back to the pre-pandemic levels of business. Last year, there was a 50 percent drop in tourism. Things have started to look up from January this year, and we are hopeful of a recovery,” says Reena Sahu, member of Mangalajodi Ecotourism Trust. Reena manages a stay facility with four rooms and a dormitory. The tourist package includes stay, homely meals and boat rides in the morning and evening. Like this, the Mangalajodi Ecotourism Trust supports nearly 40 families of the village, many of whom run home-stays for tourists where people get a taste of the local culture.

Northern pintails and northern shovellers from Siberia and Central Asiain in the waters of Mangalajodi, northeastern edge of Chilika Lake in Odisha
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

Mangalajodi’s extraordinary community-led success story was recognised on a global platform, when the Mangalajodi Ecotourism Trust won the prestigious UNWTO (United Nations World Tourism Organisation) Award for Innovation in Tourism Enterprise at Madrid, Spain in 2018.

Today, the entire village guards the Mangalajodi ecosystem fiercely and villagers like Purna are its vocal advocates. There is also a 40-member monitoring team from the three trusts, who are connected with the fishermen to keep a strict watch over any incidences of poaching.