London calling: The Australian fashion designers taking over the UK

On the floor above Vallance’s bow-laden mini-dresses and sparkling gowns in Harvey Nichols, past countryman Christopher Esber’s body skimming dresses with swooping cut-outs and Dion Lee’s stretch corsets, rising Australian brand Alemais has a sprawling pink pop-up space filled with folkloric print dresses and patchwork floral pieces.

“The UK comprises approximately 20 per cent of our export business, and we have over 20 accounts in this market,” says Alemais co-founder and creative director Lesleigh Jermanus, who launched the label in 2020. “This customer has spending power, but they also have so much choice, with access to every brand presented to them in an elevated way, so they’re really looking for the best.”

“We’re seeing approximately 75 per cent year-on-year growth from the UK market.”

It’s the exuberant style signatures of Alemais, Rebecca Vallance and peers Zimmermann, Bec & Bridge, Camilla and Aje, that appeal to UK customers.

“The talent coming out of Australia is exceptional with many producing strong collections that use daring colours and print, which resonates incredibly well with Harrods’ customers, and sets them aside from other markets,” says Clemmie Harris, head of contemporary fashion at Harrods.

“We have more Australian designers than we ever have before, and see particular strength in ready-to-wear and swimwear, with stand out high performers such as Camilla, Zimmerman and Camilla & Marc. We are launching Alex Perry, as a UK exclusive stockist on November 27, which is hugely exciting for our more dressed-up customers.”

Giving UK department stores exclusives is one way for Australian labels to stay on their shelves.

Camilla, which has expanded beyond kaftans to swimwear, kids and menswear, offers all of its categories in Harrods. To drive sales, an exclusive print, Dear Amore Mio, was offered to the store.

“The department stores are so important in the UK and particularly London because they are tourist destinations,” says Vallance. “It’s just as important to be seen in them as to be online.”

Luxury Australian menswear labels are also attracting UK customers, with resort brand Commas’ £1190 ($2273) cashmere coat sitting directly across from Song For the Mute’s £1109 ($2118) faux leather blazer.

Loading

“Stores like Harrods are interested in representing the full Commas offering,” says the brand’s communications director Emma Jarman. The UK supports 35 per cent of Commas’ wholesale revenue.

“They invest in new, interesting and special pieces like accessories and heavier options from our winter collections. They are happy to take a risk and eager to provide their customers with something fascinating.”

“The buyers and clients are such early adopters. The stores service so much of Europe and the world with the sheer number of visitors each year.”

So, do the customers at these British shopping destinations know that they are buying an Australian label when they take a dress from Esber, Camilla & Marc or Zimmermann home?

“Does it matter?” Vallance asks. “I think many people still think of Australia as quite laid back. What we are seeing from Australian labels here in the UK is sophistication and that is something I am very proud of.”

Make the most of your health, relationships, fitness and nutrition with our Live Well newsletter. Get it in your inbox every Monday.