Dance, geometry merge at Paris menswear week

Here are some highlights for fall-winter 2023-24 collections:

ISSEY MIYAKE GOES COMPLEX, BRIGHT

A writhing dance troupe performed on the runway against a backdrop of optically striped lighting, which moved organically.

It was more than just spectacle and introduced a geometric theme this season — how simple shapes can be folded to create more complex ones — something that the Japanese house explored in several distinct sections usinb its signature techno-pleating techniques throughout.

The Homme Plisse Issey Miyake collection began with a beautiful, soft new coat silhouette — in flashes of eye-popping color — with ridge-like shoulder tucks and warped tubular sleeves. Lines in the groove of the pleating gave the impression of complexity, even if the silhouettes themselves seemed minimalist.

Elsewhere, the idea of simplicity spawning more than the sum of its parts was developed with flair in a style called the “edge coat.” The amorphous-pleated garment resembled a sort of dark jellyfish, designed using triangular shaped fabric that created a sublime three-dimensional shape.