Chanel goes understated in final day of Paris Fashion Week

Here are some highlights of spring-summer 2023 collections:

For spring, the Parisian stalwart’s designer, Virginie Viard, gently riffed on the 1980s in an overall simple collection doused in black and white and which seemed like it had nothing to prove.

There were some minor thrills.

A-line minis led the eyes down to flashes of tease — like banded white-lattice thigh high socks. Model Irina Shayk looked ravishing in a shoulder-less, capped-sleeve marbled gown with ruffled tiering.

Moments such as a polka dot leather dress with a stiff rippled peplum provided the historic musing for the age-old house founded in 1910, borrowing from turn-of-the-(last)-century styles.

But it was all very subtly delivered by the French designer, who took over from the exuberant Karl Lagerfeld following his death in 2019. The beating heart of this display was understatement. The decor’s black and white images spanning the ages, including empty historic gardens, may not have helped the mood — but the 71-look collection felt lacking in energy at times.

Still, accessories provided welcome shots of vibrancy. Bejeweled clasps, swinging pearl and jewel pendants and cascading gold necklaces gave pared-down looks in black and white an on-trend ’80s feel.