Are sulphates in shampoo really that bad?

When was the last time you flipped over your shampoo bottle to read its ingredient list? Do it and you’ll likely find 15-30 hard to pronounce ingredients, usually ending in “-ol” or “-ate” or “-yl”.

Cosmetic chemists aside, most of us will have a hard time deciphering this kind of information, which means it’s rare for a shampoo ingredient to become a household name. That is, with the exception of one: sulphates.

Within the beauty community, sulphates are a divisive ingredient due to concerns they can strip natural oils from your scalp and hair, leading to hair dryness and scalp sensitivity. There are tons of “sulphate-free” options out there, touted as the gentler choice for your hair and scalp.

Generally speaking, the brands who do choose to go “sulphate-free” shout it from the rooftops, whereas those who include sulphates in their formulas keep it on the down low.

But recently, popular skincare brand The Ordinary went against the grain for the launch of its first-ever shampoo, highlighting the fact that yes, the formula does contain sulphates – even calling it Sulphate 4% Cleanser for Body and Hair.

“Rather than focusing on fear-mongering, we want to focus on the facts,” says Prudvi Mohan Kaka, the brand’s chief scientific officer. “When formulated properly, sulphates are an extremely effective shampoo ingredient that can also be an environmentally sustainable option.” The Ordinary’s chosen sulphate is “readily biodegradable [and] can easily be broken down completely and quite quickly in the environment.”

Rather than writing off sulphates entirely, Kaka says that The Ordinary wants to shift the conversation around this ingredient. “We lead with science and place great importance in the education of our consumers to help provide everyone with the tools to make their own informed decisions when it comes to skin and hair care.”

What are sulphates and why are they used in beauty products?

“In personal care products, a sulphate is a surfactant,” explains Hannah English, pharmaceutical scientist and author of the soon-to-be-released book Your Best Skin: The Science of Skincare. “A surfactant breaks up the surface tension between the oil and water so that oil can be broken up and washed away.”