Taste of Tucson: The pambazo is a Mexican sandwich with humble origins

The sandwich may have originated in Veracruz, where the filling is more commonly refried beans and cheese (and that’s a very good version). But today, the sandwich is more closely connected to Mexico City.

The name pambazo, it turns out, is the contracted form of “pan basso” — the bread of the lower class. Originally, pan basso was made using old, coarsely milled flour, rather than the freshly ground, refined white flour reserved for the upper class.

The joke was on the upper class here — the coarser flour was more nutritious, and arguably tastier — than the bolted, sifted white stuff that the gentry preferred.

However, that coarse bread could be a little tough to chew, so it became the custom to dip it in some kind of sauce before frying it lightly to crisp the bread for these sandwiches. Traditionally, that sauce is made with guajillo chiles — which, I happened to learn recently, are the chiles most commonly used in enchilada sauce.

The version I’m sharing with you today is stuffed with a savory chorizo-potato mixture, making it kind of a carb festival. It will fill you up, that’s for sure — the pambazo is, after all, poor people’s food, meant to top up a tummy at a low cost. If that’s not your thing, feel free to make your pambazo with carnitas or shredded beef or pork. Or return to its Veracruzano origins and use beans and cheese as a filling.

Even the best-stocked Mexican grocers I’ve visited don’t offer truly authentic pan basso, so I’ve adapted this recipe to use bolillos. If you have the time, let them get a little stale before you make the pambazo.

The bread definitely needs a quick dip in the guajillo sauce to make it authentic. Without that dip, and the distinctive red color it gives to the sandwich, you’re just making a torta.

Sometimes I make these with quick-pickled red onions instead of raw slices. My formula is fairly basic: a medium red onion, sliced into ¼-inch rounds or half-moons, a teaspoon each of salt and sugar, and ¾ cup of white vinegar. Place everything into a glass canning jar and top up with boiling water. Store in the refrigerator for up to a month.

Pambazos with chorizo and potatoes

I’ve given instructions here to make the guajillo sauce for these distinctive, red-tinged Mexican sandwiches, but to save time in a pinch, you can also use good quality red enchilada sauce. You’ll need a cup or a little more. You can vary the filling as you wish; they’re also good filled with shredded beef or pork.

2½ cups red potatoes, peeled and diced

2 Mexican chorizo sausages, casing removed

6 guajillo peppers, stems, seeds, and veins removed

6 bolillo rolls, halved lengthwise

1 cup cotija, Oaxacan cheese or queso fresco, crumbled

½ cup red onions, sliced

1½ cups shredded lettuce

½ cup Mexican crema or sour cream

Make the filling: Boil potatoes in salted water until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Heat the oil over medium-low heat in a non-stick pan. Add chorizo and fry for about 5 minutes or until lightly crispy.

Add potatoes and mix well, salt to taste and set aside.

Making the guajillo sauce: Place guajillo peppers in a bowl and cover with hot water. Soak for 10 minutes.

Drain and place chili peppers in a blender with garlic, oregano, cumin and salt. Add 1 cup of water and blend for 2 minutes or until smooth.

Using a fine sieve, strain the sauce into a bowl and set aside.

Fry the bread: In a non-stick pan or on a comal, heat 3 to 4 tablespoons of oil over medium heat.

Dip the bread into the guajillo sauce, making sure it coats all sides well.

Place the bread on the pan and fry for about one minute top and bottom or until slightly crisp. Split the rolls lengthwise and slightly brush the crumb — don’t go overboard on the sauce or the rolls will become soggy.

Flip the bread and fry the crumb side until browned and slightly crispy. Add more oil if necessary.

Place bread on a serving plate. Place some of the potato filling atop the bottom piece.

Add lettuce and onions, then top with queso fresco and cream.

Close the pambazo with the top piece of bread and serve with your favorite salsa.