Taste of Tucson: Chile-spiced peanuts make a terrific snack

Something about our soft evenings makes the soccer teams rowdier, and I can hear every kick, cheer and shout as the teams compete next door. The coaches’ exhortations, in English and Spanish, ring out clearly as dusk nears. It sometimes feels as though the coaches are talking to me.

Often, the soccer players’ enthusiasm is underscored with the strains of a lone bagpiper, practicing somewhere off in the distance. My friends in faraway places, with whom I often chat in late afternoon, can hear the bagpiper on the phone, and they mutter about cognitive dissonance. The drone of bagpipes in the desert seems weird to them.

For me, though, these are the golden hours, times that affirm the reasons why I love Tucson.

The dog and I settle into our places on the patio, he with a chewy to distract him from the sketchy frond of the neighbor’s palm tree that hangs over our patio wall, and I with a drink and a small snack — something to whet my appetite while I decide what to cook for supper.

To do its job, that little snack needs to be highly flavored but nutritious. It should be on the salty side, not the sweet. This can be kind of a tall order. A bowl of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos would meet the first criteria, but not the second. A plate of carrot and celery sticks might meet the second criteria, but not the first.

Lately, I’ve fallen in love with roasted spiced nuts of several varieties, which easily fill both requirements. They are easy to make and reasonably inexpensive to boot.

If you have a Spartan’s self-discipline, portion control won’t be an issue for you. For me, a legendary glutton, however, it’s best to measure a ration into a custard cup, and when they’re gone, that’s it for the day.

The chile-spiced peanuts I offer to you today will take just minutes to make and will keep for several weeks if they last that long.

While I prefer to start with dry-roasted peanuts, the Cajuns I knew in the Deep South made something very similar with peanuts in the shell. Their thinking was that the spicy seasoning would rub off on your fingers as you shelled the peanuts, and then be transferred to your mouth as you nibbled the nuts. I think you could substitute peanuts in the shell if you wished, but I confess that I haven’t tried that.

Pecans would also be good if treated in this way, and maybe walnuts, though again, I have not tried them.

Although the dry-roasted peanuts already have their flavors deepened in roasting, we want to oil them lightly so a lively spice mix will stick to them. We’re roasting them at a low temperature in the oven, so the spices won’t burn and the citrusy aromatic notes from the lime juice remain.

By the time I’ve finished my drink and noshed on the nuts, I generally have a pretty good idea of what sounds good for supper. As night falls, the bagpiper’s gone silent and the soccer teams have begun to leave their fields. My good old dog groans as he rises to go into the house with me.

We are both sublimely happy to live in the Old Pueblo.

The fresh chiles in this recipe are not meant to be eaten (though they can be if you and your palate are brave!). They’re there to signal that these noshable peanuts are highly spiced. Store the cooked, cooled peanuts in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 weeks.

4 cups unsalted dry-roasted peanuts

6 to 8 thin red fresh chiles, such as cayenne or chiles de arbol

2½ tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon hot chile powder

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.

Spread the peanuts and chiles on a large, rimmed baking sheet in a single layer.

Combine lime juice, olive oil, chile powder, salt, garlic powder, and cumin in a small bowl. Drizzle over the peanuts and chiles. Toss the peanuts and chiles with the dressing until the nuts are evenly coated. The peanuts will look wet.

Bake, stirring occasionally, until the coating is dry, and the spices are lightly toasted, about 30 minutes.

Transfer the peanuts to a plate and let them cool completely. The peanuts can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 weeks. If they lose their crispness, reheat them on a baking sheet in a 250-degree oven for 15 minutes before serving.