Music on the streets of Mylapore: Why Carnatic vocalist Saketharaman is celebrating an age-old tradition

Narada gets off his father’s scooter, and high-fives Andal.

It’s exactly 6 a.m. at Mada Street in Chennai’s Mylapore, and school children dressed as various mythological characters are getting ready to perform. Popular Carnatic vocalist Saketharaman gives them the cue, and the group begins walking along the road, singing ‘Margazhi Thingal’, a verse from the Thiruppavai.

Even as Mylapore wakes up to the sound of temple bells and fluttering pigeons, Carnatic music fills the air. This Margazhi season,  veedhi (street) bhajanais are back, with several music enthusiasts gathering in the morning and singing bhajans and songs. The bhajan tradition itself is said to be more than 500 years old, having been established by Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. In Mylapore, however, it was reportedly Seshachari, a lawyer, philanthropist and a friend of Annie Besant, who kickstarted this tradition during the end of the 19th century.

Several groups singing bhajans criss-cross each other on these streets during cold mornings in December, when monkey caps and sweaters make an appearance. The music should go on, and has been, for almost hundred years, as Saketharaman reveals. Having grown up in the neighbourhood, he has been part of such groups since childhood. “I remember singing on this very street when I was just nine,” he recalls, before rendering the same song ‘Karthikeya Gangeya’ in Thodi raga, which was taught to him by Rukmani Ramani, daughter of its composer Papanasam Sivan. She has been carrying forward the  veedhi bhajanai tradition of her illustrious father till date.

Children part of Carnatic vocalist Saketharaman’s veedhi bhajan group
| Photo Credit:
Johan Sathyadas

Saketharaman, who has several concerts lined up this Season, made his debut as a singer performing in veedhi bhajanais. “Since then, this tradition holds a special place in my heart. I have seen many legendary musicians, including my guru (Lalgudi Jayaraman) and Sethalapathi Balasubramaniam participate in it. By involving school children, I want to take this tradition to the younger generation.”

After the pandemic, this is a good way to connect with people once again, says Saketharaman. “This is a medium where you don’t need much knowledge of music. There are no rules, nor any critics observing you. Anybody, including children, can participate. It’s all about the joy of music, soaking in the ambience and nurturing a tradition.”