Dion Lee blazes a supermodel-free trail in New York

This was Lee having his cake and thinking about eating it too, with one foot dancing to a New York club mix and the other kicking around the commercial appeal with which many of his Australian customers have an easier relationship.

“It comes back to Dion’s connection with architecture, which is universal,” says Edwina McCann, editor of Vogue Australia, offering support among the influencers. “At his last show in Sydney he also chose to show in a new building development.

“Dion has done an incredible job of standing out in the New York market, which is not easy. You have to make some noise. But I’m older than most of the people here, and I can still find pieces that appeal to me.”

While it remains to be seen whether McCann embraces a moulded monstera-leaf dress with matching boots, the appeal of neon mini-dresses with threaded panels and cropped jackets with safety belts could prove stronger.

Lee’s Australian origins were a mystery to many of the guests, including the drag queen, visual artist and metaverse expert next to me, which only increased the thrill of seeing covetable BMX Bandit-style separates worthy of Nicole Kidman join the knitted handkerchief bra-tops and zippered denim corsets.

Australia’s great acting export might have looked more at home modelling red and black moto-jackets and white, red and black pants than her foil dress foray for Balenciaga at the haute couture shows in July.

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We are still waiting for Lee’s answers to questions on the future direction of his brand, which has six boutiques in Australia and planned stores in New York and Miami, other Australian labels are nipping at his raised heels and preparing to join the NYFW calendar.

Following Aje’s successful presentation on Friday, designer Rebecca Vallance and representatives for Anna Quan are meeting with US buyers and eyeing next season’s schedule. Daniel Avakian will also partly recreate his Australian Fashion Week show, exploring the collision of the metaverse and the real runway this season.

McCann thinks that Lee has a healthy head start.

“Dion stays true to his influences and is a thoughtful designer. That is partly why these people are here.”

Dedication is one thing, but it’s still nice to imagine what would happen if Evangelista had been wearing one of Lee’s corsets beneath that voluminous Fendi coat.

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